The original post is located at wwd.com
There’s a new insignia chez Sportmax making its debut with the resort 2025 collection and set to become a regular of its lineups going forward: a serpentine buckle nodding to the brand’s initial and punctuating the latest looks and accessories designed by its in-house team.
Rendered either in shiny metal or covered with crystals, the new hardware injected a maximalist touch to the brand’s signature sleek and minimal DNA, imbuing a charming tension between these two approaches. As for the concise range, it skipped any particular inspiration and storytelling to focus on wardrobe solutions that swung between ‘80s silhouettes and ‘90s lean shapes.
The former era came in the form of glossy pieces and ample volumes oozing a confident, strong attitude. Jersey jackets and coats layered with a croc-embossed film had a lush feel, exalted by the shawl-like collar sensually spotlighting the collarbones. While this shape also was seen in beautiful red and black wool coats that restated the company’s expertise, the concept was stretched a tad too much in a leather jacket, whose exaggerated wrapping effect didn’t turned out as well.
More streamlined looks respected the ‘90s soul of the brand, which especially shined in the closing part of the lineup. Here, essential nude separates were crafted from a synthetic alternative to leather or were dotted with thermo-adhesive rhinestones. Elsewhere, references to the decade ranged from rib-knitted dresses marked by gauzy sleeves and golden studs to a monochrome long frock in a scuba-like fabric.
Tailoring bridged the two periods as it was cut either in cropped jackets and high-waisted roomy pants in pin-striped suits or rendered in more elongated and narrow proportions in a slimmer, chalk-hued one.
A red suit cinched by the S-shaped buckles and a leopard print covering a trenchcoat and a long wrap dress in satin twill easily made the biggest impact, revealing that maximalist outbursts fit well in the Sportmax world, too.